Al-Maghreb, The Land of the Sunset.

 

I’m thrilled that I finally made this incredible trip happen in October and November of 2024. We flew directly from San Francisco to Lisbon, followed by a connecting flight to Al-Maghreb, the land of the sunset. As the plane descended over the Atlantic, Casablanca, the largest city in Morocco, came into view. My heart started beating fast as excitement surged throughout my body.

This was a trip I had planned many times before, but for various reasons, I could never make it happen. Now, it was finally coming to fruition. I have long desired to travel to North Africa to explore my Berber ancestry on my maternal grandfather’s side of the family. This journey was not just a trip; it was a pilgrimage of enlightenment across #Morocco and #North Africa.

We arrived at our hotel, shaken but safe and sound.

Upon arriving, I was struck by the airport’s modern, all-white design, which featured clean lines and a safe layout. It had a one-way in-and-out system, with security guards at every checkpoint, and what I thought was a quick customs check. Our luggage went through a final security check before we exited through the front doors, where our driver awaited to take us to our hotel near Old Casablanca.  I felt at home.

Casablanca’s modern areas and vibe resembled Los Angeles, with shopping centers and palm trees everywhere. The only intimidating aspect was seeing how cars managed to drive in every direction without colliding in the busy streets. It was a slow, inch-by-inch process, which was a bit nerve-wracking. However, our driver was a professional and navigated the congestion with ease. He cracked jokes and made us laugh while giving us a colorful overview of the city. We arrived at our hotel, shaken but safe and sound.

After checking in, we met our travel guide, Lahcen, for the first time to review various details and documents. Immediately, he felt like family—like a Berber brother. His kind, dark, warm eyes and soft-spoken voice were very reassuring. My heart felt warm. He was a true rockstar on our North African trek! We couldn’t have made this journey without him and his friendly, caring nature.

La Table Du Gray Restaurant & Lounge.

That night, we had our first authentic Moroccan meal on Moroccan soil. We dined at La Table Du Gray Restaurant & Lounge, a sleek, contemporary California-style restaurant in our hotel. Our amazing dinner started with olives soaked in olive oil and khobz bread. Then we enjoyed mostly roasted and steamed vegetables, with chicken and fish cooked and served in tagines. It was mouthwatering.

After finishing our delicious three-course meal and a bottle of wine, we requested the check and received one each. We mistakenly thought our total was $200, so we left a $40 tip. When we returned to our room, we checked our credit card’s conversion rate and discovered that our meal had only cost $20 each! Our tip was way over the top, which made both Mr. Don and me laugh.  We felt like we were off to a great start in showing our appreciation for the experience.

The Food.

We had an amazing time exploring Moroccan food, it is incredible! Every day, they make fresh vegetables and delicious bread to go with every meal. But the real standouts were the Moroccan kefta kabobs and meatballs. They were like Italian sausages mixed with hot-links for a spicy kick. The smell of ginger, cumin, saffron, and cinnamon was so yummy it made us want to eat everything in sight!

The Hassan II Mosque.

The next day, we headed to the Hassan Mosque. It was breathtaking in all its glory and vastness.  The intricate zellige tiles, marble, and cedarwood carving told stories of devotion, craftsmanship, and divine creation.  The beautiful details, in all light colors, glowed in the sunlight like gold, leaving me amazed. It was like stepping into a world of pure magic with beautiful spiritual inspiration. And the best part? The slight ocean breeze carried a light sound of waves breaking gently against the shore.  It was truly magical!

Stirring and Uplifting Moments.

On the road, we experienced many joyful, incredible moments as we learned about the people, their customs, and the country’s history. But spending time having tea with the Berber nomads, and meeting their children so naturally beautiful, precious, and pure, was an emotional highlight for me. I fell in love with the charm and pristine beauty of Rabat. Both Mr. Don and I could easily imagine ourselves living there. In Fez, we witnessed fabulous pottery makers and tile artists.  The Medina of Fez is a stirring maze, a city without streets but has thousands of narrow, winding alleyways. It was said that two nuns got lost in the Medina of Fez, and when they were found many years later, they had converted to Islam.

We met some beautiful Berber people and their families during our trek across the country, staying at various riads along the way. They treated us like family, giving us a glimpse into Moroccan life and what it must have been like for my ancestors. A delightful surprise was the Gnaoua African band and dancers we encountered in Et-Taous. A small village on our way to the vast Sahara Desert. Their music brought joy and fun to our journey, and I felt the rhythm of their beat.  We rode camels to our luxurious Sahara tent hotel, where the sunsets and sunrises were simply magnificent. Awe!

From the Sahara Desert, to the date farms along the southern slopes of the Atlas Mountains, to the High Atlas Mountains where Don took a long hike to Lahcen’s home for lunch, and all of the small villages in between, I thoroughly enjoyed the comprehensive overview of the country’s rich history, spanning its past, present, and current prosperity. The historical guides were exceptionally informative and knowledgeable, each with their own unique stories to tell.  I wanted to just sit with each one to pick their brains and to learn more and more.

The Red City, Marrakech.

After 12.5 days, we pull into Marrakech, known as the Red City because of its red buildings and walls built in the 11th century by Ali ibn Yusuf. The medina’s embankments and buildings are made of beaten red clay.  Marrakech was once a stop on the Silk Road and a gateway to Europe.  For all of its hustle, today, it’s a relatively quiet city. The ever-ending mopeds coming and going were the loudest sound heard.

Mr. Don and I developed a special fondness for historical guide Najib Tyouss during our time in Marrakech. Our initial encounter with Najib took place at the 800-year-old Koutoubia Mosque, within the Ben Youssef Madrasa, an ancient Koranic school renowned for its lavishly decorated courtyard. Marrakech’s architectural landscape revolves around the Koutoubia Mosque, an Almohad architectural landmark that stands tall as the city’s tallest building, intentionally designed to maintain its prominence, Najib explains.

Shopping in Marrakech.

Arranged by brother Lahcen, Najib became our shopping guide and now an adopted brother for life too.  He introduced us to hidden luxury treasures in Souk Semmarine, the largest souk in Morocco, in Marrakech’s Medina, literally hidden, as these shops offer the very best quality and are not inexpensive, Najib explained. We were good with that, so we started our Marrakech shopping adventure with Najib in a tuk-tuk.

After navigating through the labyrinthine Medina streets, alleys, and walkways, we finally arrived at our first shop. Najib guided us through a back alleyway to a beautiful gated door. There, we were greeted by the owner and an array of breathtaking handmade silk kaftans, plush velvet royal jackets, and rich hand-woven wool scarves. These royal pieces exuded a low-key elegance that charmed me. I couldn’t resist the temptation to have one of each.

Najib negotiated the best prices.

Mr. Don also had his eyes set on four exquisite djellaba kaftans, meticulously crafted from the finest cotton and silk, all hand-made. Najib skillfully negotiated the prices, and to our delight, the shop owner threw in a complimentary tarboosh as a gesture of goodwill. With our purchases finalized, we left the shop feeling a sense of splendor. Wow!

Najib informed us that silver was the preferred precious metal in Morocco. So back in the tuk-tuk, we headed to explore antique silver jewelry. I particularly wanted handmade antique Berber pieces. Our next stop was a deluxe shop that had a little bit of everything that was handmade, from exquisite pottery to beautiful antique and modern jewelry.  To my surprise, I discovered several unique Berber designs that seemed to call out to me to take them home. Again, Najib negotiated the best prices. My items were wrapped up, and then we were off to a nearby café on the Jemaa el-Fna for a break before taking a buggy ride, guided by Najib, that transported us from the 14th century to the 21st century.  The ride was thought-provoking.

Some Traditions:

In Morocco, widows wear white for 40 days as a solemn honor for their deceased husbands, and they receive preferential treatment. For instance, they are given the front of any line. Even in a bustling café or restaurant, they are promptly seated. After the 40-day mourning period concludes, a grand feast is organized for the family, friends, or the entire village.

Mint tea is the preferred drink in every home in Morocco.  Every meal, business meeting, or meet-and-greet begins and ends with it.  A toast in Morocco is more like a quiet salute. You do not clink glasses. You pour, you smell, you hold the glass up, and you drink. Every Friday is a holy day of prayer with a traditional couscous family celebration dinner, and of course, it starts with mint tea. Friday couscous is now our go-to meal too.

I discovered the five daily calls to prayer to be incredibly peaceful. Initially, what appeared peculiar soon became a daily anticipation for me.  Regardless of your location, the call could be heard, prompting me to pause and express gratitude for the present moment and this extraordinary journey.

Things to Ponder:

Did you know that in 859 AD, the world’s first university, the University of Al-Qarawiyyin in Fez, Morocco, was established? And sometime before 200 AD, the first school of theology, the Catechetical School of Alexandria, was also founded in North Africa. Additionally, the wealthiest man in history, Mansa Musa, was an African, the Salt King, who ruled the Mali Empire in the 14th century. These are just a few fascinating facts about North Africa’s rich history and its significant contributions to the world.

Consider this: The remarkable ancient architectural styles that emerged in various regions, including Spain, Portugal, Italy, France, Egypt, and Morocco, over centuries, bear a striking resemblance. Take a moment to ponder this connection. What does all of this collectively reveal about the history and influence of North Africa?

Thank you, brother Lahcen, our driver Hassan, and Najib for helping to make this trip even more special than I could imagine.

Be Bold and Bloom, be at your best every day in every way, no matter what the circumstances are. Be your SuperSelf.  Speak up for yourself and others.

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